Dorf · Co. Donegal

Rathmullan

Rathmullan is the Fanad Peninsula village where the Flight of the Earls began on 14 September 1607. The 1516 Carmelite friary ruins and the lough views are short walks from the quay.

The village and the flight

Rathmullan sits on the western shore of Lough Swilly at the foot of the Fanad Peninsula. It is eleven kilometres north-east of Ramelton and twelve east of Milford. The Irish name, Ráth Maoláin, means "Maolán's ringfort". The country around the village carries the earliest settlement of all. Court tombs and ringforts in the neighbouring townlands of Crevary Upper, Rathmullan and Ballyboe predate the rest of the site by a good few thousand years. The history stays in the open. The quay, the friary and the lough views are all within a short walk of one another.

The friary

The ruined Carmelite friary dates from 1516. Eoghan Rua MacSweeney built it. An English garrison from Sligo sacked the place in 1595. In 1617, Andrew Knox, the Protestant Bishop of Raphoe, occupied it. A later Bishop of Raphoe turned it into a fortified house, anticipating a possible French invasion during the Napoleonic Wars. The walls are what remain. The setting is above the village, with the lough beyond. It is a good place to feel how that history happened rather than read about it.

The departure

On 14 September 1607, ninety-nine aristocrats of the Gaelic order left Rathmullan for the European continent. The group included chiefs of Clan Ó Néill and Clan Ó Domhnaill. This was the episode now known as the Flight of the Earls. It closed an era in Irish history. The quay has marked the anniversary with commemorations. The village's calendar still turns on that date.

Practical

The village makes the base for the Fanad Peninsula. The lighthouse at the head, the coastal walks and the view across to Inishowen are all an easy drive or a long walk from the centre. Allow half a day here.

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Übernachten

The quiet end of the lough

Stay where the Flight of the Earls began — the Fanad villages are small and the light is big.

  • LetterkennyThe Inishowen town, with the full range of stays, shops and fuel; the natural base for the Fanad. · 25 min by car
  • RameltonThe village at the head of the lough, with B&Bs and pubs, closer to the western shore. · 15 min by car
  • MilfordThe west end of the Fanad, a small base for the peninsula walks. · 20 min by car
See stays around Rathmullan ↗

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