The great stone walls near Dun Aonghasa on Inis Mór, the Aran Islands, County Galway

Island · Co. Galway

The Aran Islands

The three Aran Islands sit at the mouth of Galway Bay, defined by Carboniferous limestone and a Gaeltacht population. Dún Aonghasa, dating to 1100 BC, anchors the landscape, while year-round ferries leave from Rossaveal.

The Aran Islands, County Galway — photo by Lubo Ivanko

The islands

Oileáin Árann, or na hÁrainneacha (The Arans), sit at the mouth of Galway Bay. Off the west coast of Ireland, the group covers about 46 km². They make up the historic barony of Aran in County Galway.

From west to east, the order is:

  • Inishmore (Árainn, Inis Mór), the largest.
  • Inishmaan (Inis Meáin), second-largest.
  • Inisheer (Inis Oírr), the smallest.

Smaller islets dot the space between them. As of 2022, 1,347 people lived there. Irish is the primary language, placing the islands in the Gaeltacht, though most residents also speak English. The numbers have fallen since 1841, when the count was roughly 3,500.

The ground under it

Carboniferous limestone forms the base. There is no natural topsoil. Early settlers added seaweed and shore sand to the soil. They built drystone walls to protect it. Those walls define the islands now. On Inishmore, great curving lines run down to the sea.

Seven prehistoric stone forts stand on the islands. Dún Aonghasa on Inishmore is the largest. It dates to 1100 BC. The hillfort sits on a cliff edge dropping into the Atlantic. The walk there is the main event on the island.

The history in the stone

Enda of Aran founded the Killeany monastery on Inishmore in AD 490. It became a center for learning, piety, and asceticism. Tempull Breccain, the fifth-century Church of Saint Brecan, is also on Inishmore.

On Inisheer, the ringfort of Dún Formna turned into a castle. The O'Briens built it around the 15th century. O'Brien's Castle still stands on the hill above the village. Cromwell's soldiers later destroyed the castle. They also razed all but two of the seven churches established by Brecan. In 1693, the Jacobite privateer Thomas Vaughan briefly captured and held the islands.

Getting there

Ferries run year-round to all three islands from Rossaveal in County Galway. A seasonal service operates from Doolin in County Clare. Inishmore needs a day or two to do properly. The forts, wall country, and light take time. Inisheer is a day trip. Inis Meáin is the one most people skip. It is the quietest of the three.

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Where to stay

Stay on the island, walk the walls

Guesthouses on Inis Mór or Inis Oírr put the forts, the wall country and the Atlantic light all within a walk.

  • Inis MórThe largest island — guesthouses in Inis Mór and Ballydune, near the main forts. · on the island
  • Inis OírrThe smallest of the three — B&Bs in the village, near O’Brien’s Castle. · on the island
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